b. Adjusting Caster
To change caster, three washers are available - one with a .12" thickness, one that is .36" thick and one .24" thick. To increase caster place one of the thin washers at the front of the control arm shaft and one thick washer at the rear. To decrease caster place one of the thick washers at the front of the control arm shaft and one thin washer at the rear.
1. Position jack below front suspension cross member and raise front end of car.
2. A Place jack stands below front side members and remove front wheel on side which caster is to be adjusted.
3. Install front spring compressor J-21689 and compress spring. See Figure 30-9.
| Figure 30-9 J-21689 Installed
| Figure 30-10 Upper Control Arm Shaft and Bushings
4. Remove upper control arm shaft.
5. Remove upper control arm from shock absorber support, being careful not to lose toothed washers.
6. Adjust caster by installing selective toothed washers on both sides of control arm shaft, between control arm and shock absorber support.
NOTE: Never use ore than one washer at any one location. The total thickness, front and rear washer, must equal .48". There are only three possible caster changes that can be made.
7. Using a drift to align holes, replace control arm shaft in the direction as shown in Figure 30-10. Torque hex nut to 33 lb. Ft.
NOTE: Make certain that crown of both plate washers show inward.
8. Remove spring compressor, and install front wheel and torque wheel nuts to 65 ft. lbs.
9. Recheck caster.
c. Adjusting Camber
Camber is adjusted by turning the upper ball joint flange 180 degrees. This means that only two possible camber adjustments can =be made. At the factory, camber is set at the smallest possible positive camber setting. Rotating the flange will make camber more positive.
1. Raise front end of car using block of wood on jack to prevent damage to the front cross member.
2. Support car below left and right front spring eye on lower control arm and remove front wheel on side to be adjusted.
3. Remove ball joint from upper control arm and front steering knuckle.
4. Lift upper control arm and turn the ball joint flange through 180 degrees.
5. First tighten both ball joint attaching bolts on upper control arm and then the ball stud castle nut. Torque to 29 ft. lbs. Install new cotter pin.
6. Install front wheel and torque wheel nuts to 65 feet.
7. Recheck camber.
d. Adjusting Toe-In
Toe-in is adjusted b rotating the tie rod sleeves. Refer to Figure 30-11.
| Figure 30-11 Adjusting Toe-in
1. Recheck caster and camber before proceeding with toe-in adjustment. If correct, adjust toe-in.
2. Set wormshaft and ball nut to steering wheel half way from one stop to the other, noticing the following:
(a) With the steering wheel hub button removed, the marking on the steering shaft end should be in a horizontal position.
(b) The steering wheel spokes should also be in a centered position.
3. Remove wire clamps on left and right tie rod and push back bellows.
5. The toe-in should be 1/32" - 1/8".
NOTE: When adjusting toe-in, never grip tie rod on inner ball stud joint. To avoid ball stud resting against inside of hole in tie rod outer end, center outer end of each tie rod to the ball stud.
6. Pull bellows over tie rods and attach with wire clamps. The bellows must not be twisted and wire ends must show towards steering gear adjusting screw opening.
7. Torque clamp bolts to 12 lb. Ft.
8. After toe-in adjustment, turn steering wheel several times completely towards the left and right to determine whether bellows are properly attached to the tie rods and steering gear housing.
e. Checking Theoretical King Pin Inclination
CAUTION: When checking theoretical king pin inclination, car must be on a level surface, both transversely and fore and aft, trim heights must be within limits, and the car must be at curb load.
With camber known to be within specified limits, theoretical kingpin inclination should check within specified limits.
If camber is incorrect beyond limits of adjustment and theoretical kingpin inclination is correct, or nearly so, a bent steering knuckle is indicated.
There is no adjustment for theoretical kingpin inclination as this factor depends on the accuracy of the front suspension parts. Distorted parts should be replaced with new parts.
CAUTION: The practice of heating and bending front suspension parts to correct errors must be avoided as this may produce soft spots in the metal in which fatigue and breakage may develop in service.
30-6 FRONT WHEEL BEARING ADJUSTMENT
1. If wheel has not previously been removed front the car, remove grease cap, cotter pin and spindle nut. Discard cotter pin.
2. Torque spindle nut to 18 lb. Ft. while rotating wheel. This will allow for the bearings to settle.
3. Back of steering knuckle nut ¼ turn. If slot and cotter pin hole are staggered, further back off nut ½ turn, but do not tighten, until net hole in nut is in alignment with hole in spindle. Install new cotter pin.
NOTE: A properly adjusted wheel bearing has a small amount of endplay and a loose nut when adjusted in the above manner.
30-7 UPPER BALL JOINT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
1. Place jack under spring eye and raise car. Remove front wheels from car.
2. Remove cotter pin and castle nut from upper ball joint stud. Discard cotter pin.
3. Press ball stud from steering knuckle using puller J-21687, and remove two (2) bolts attaching ball joint to upper control arm. See Figure 30-12.
4. If dust cap on upper ball joint is torn or missing, the ball joint should be replaced.